Knitting abbreviations might look like a bunch of random letters, but trust me, they are super helpful once you get the hang of them. These short forms save space in patterns and make knitting instructions easier to follow. But, if you’re new to knitting, they might feel like decoding a secret language. Don’t worry, though; I’ve got your back!
Knitting abbreviations are basically shorthand for certain stitches, techniques, or instructions. Instead of writing out the full phrase ‘Knit two together,’ a pattern will just use ‘K2tog.’ It’s way quicker and keeps things tidy, especially in complex patterns.
Why are these abbreviations so essential? Well, they help keep patterns clear and concise. Imagine reading a pattern that spells out every single instruction in full—it would be like trying to read a novel! Abbreviations cut through the noise, letting you focus on the actual knitting.
Let’s look at some of the common abbreviations you’ll come across. There are plenty, but we’ll focus on some basics you’ll use often. These include ‘K’ for knit, ‘P’ for purl, ‘CO’ for cast on, and ‘BO’ for bind off. There are also combination techniques like ‘K2tog’ (knit two together) and ‘SSK’ (slip, slip, knit) that might look intimidating at first but are straightforward once you know what they mean and how to execute them.
So, sit tight, grab your knitting needles, and let’s dive into the world of knitting abbreviations. Trust me, by the time you finish, you’ll be decoding patterns like a pro!
Deciphering Common Knitting Abbreviations
Knitting patterns can seem like a different language at first, but once you get to know the standard abbreviations, it’s like unlocking a secret code. Knowing what each abbreviation means and how to do it is key to becoming a confident knitter.
Let’s start with the building blocks: ‘K’ and ‘P’. It doesn’t get more basic than this. ‘K’ stands for knit, which is your go-to stitch. On the flip side, ‘P’ is for purl, which creates a different texture. These two stitches are like the bread and butter of knitting. Every other technique builds off these basics.
Next, you have ‘CO’ and ‘BO,’ which stand for cast on and bind off. ‘CO’ is the technique you use to start your project, giving you the foundational stitches. ‘BO’ is how you finish your piece, securing the stitches so they don’t unravel. Simple enough, right?
Now, onto some slightly more advanced abbreviations. ‘K2tog’ means knit two together. It’s a decrease stitch that’s used to shape your knitting, making it narrower. You basically knit two stitches at once instead of one. Another common one is ‘SSK,’ which stands for slip, slip, knit. This is another decrease stitch, but it leans the other way, giving your knitting a balanced look.
Then there’s ‘YO,’ which stands for yarn over. This creates a small hole in your knitting, often used in lace patterns. It’s done by bringing the yarn to the front before making the next stitch, creating an extra loop on your needle.
Here’s a complete list from A-Z of common knitting terms:
General
* repeat instructions following the single asterisk as directed
* * repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as directed or repeat from a given set of instructions
{ } work instructions within brackets as many times as directed
[ ] work instructions within brackets as many times as directed
( ) work instructions within parentheses as many times as directed
Knitting Abbreviations A to Z
alt | alternate |
approx | approximately |
b&t | break and tighten |
beg | beginning |
bet | between |
bk3tog | brioche knit three together; a right-leaning decrease for the brioche stitch |
BO | bind off; also known as cast-off |
BOR | beginning of round or row |
Br4st dec | brioche four stitch decrease; a double decrease for the brioche stitch |
brk | brioche knit |
brkyobrk | brioche knit yarn over brioche knit; a centered increase for the brioche stitch |
brkyobrkyobrk | brioche knit yarn over brioche knit yarn over brioche knit; a centered double increase for the brioche stitch |
brp | brioche purl |
bsk2p | brioche slip, knit two, pass; a right-leaning decrease for the brioche stitch |
byo | backward yarn over; often also reverse yarn often |
C2B | cable two back; slip one stitch to cable needle and hold in back, knit one, knit one from cable needle |
C2F | cable two front; slip one stitch to cable needle and hold in front, knit one, knit one from cable needle |
c2l or cross 2 L | cross two stitches to the left |
c2r or cross 2 R | cross two stitches to the right |
C4B | cable four back; slip two stitches to cable needle and hold in back, knit two, knit two from cable needle |
C4F | cable four front; slip two stitches to cable needle and hold in front, knit two, knit two from cable needle |
C6B | cable six back; slip three stitches to cable needle and hold in back, knit three, knit three from cable needle |
C6F | cable six front; slip three stitches to cable needle and hold in front, knit three, knit three from cable needle |
CA | color A |
CB | color B |
cb | cable back |
CC | contrast color |
cdd | centered double decrease; a variation of k3tog |
CDDP | centered double decrease purl; a variation of p3tog |
CDI | central double increase; a centered increase that increases by two stitches |
cf | cable forward |
ch | chain |
circ | circular needles |
cm | centimeters |
cn | cable needle |
cnr | corner |
CO | cast on; sometimes also cast-off |
cont or cont. | continue |
CSD | centered single decrease |
CSDB | centered single decrease back |
dec | decrease |
decs | decreases |
DI | double increase; also known as Make two |
DK | double knitting |
dpn or DPNs | double-pointed needles |
EON | end of needle |
EOR | end of row |
eor | every other row or round |
est | established |
FC | front cross |
fl | front loop |
foll or foll. | follow or following |
folls or folls. | follows |
g | grams |
g st or g. st | garter stitch |
grp | group |
in or “ | inches |
inc or inc. or incs | increase using method of your choice; usually knit into same stitch twice |
incl | including |
k or K | knit |
k1B | knit one below; knit one stitch into the row below |
k2B | knit two below; knit into the stitch two rows below |
k3B | knit three below; knit into the stitch three rows below |
k2tog | knit two together; a single right-leaning decrease |
k2tog | left knit two together left; a single left-leaning decrease |
k2tog tbl | knit two together through the back loop; a single left-leaning decrease |
k3tog | knit three together; a right-leaning double decrease |
kbf | knit back and front; very similar to kfb but leaves a less pronounced bar |
kbl | knit through the back loop |
kfb or K1 F&B | knit front back; knit one into front and back of a stitch; a single left-leaning increase |
kfbf | knit front back front |
kfsb | knit front, slip back; a left-leaning increase |
KLL | knit left loop; a left-leaning increase; sometimes also called left-lifted increase (LLI) |
KRL | knit right loop; a right-leaning increase; sometimes also called right-lifted increase (RLI) |
ksp | knit, slip, pass; knit one stitch, slip this stitch from right needle to left needle, pass the second stitch on the left needle over the first stitch and off the left needle, then return the stitch to right needle; a right-leaning decrease |
ktbl or k tbl or k1tbl | knit through the back loop; results in twisted knit stitches |
kwise or kw | knitwise |
KYOK | knit one, yarn over, knit one into the same stitch again; an increase technique used when knitting stacked increases |
LC | left cross |
LH | left hand |
LLI | left lifted increase |
LLPI | left lifted purl increase; also known as purl left loop (PLL) or purled left loop increase (PLLI) |
lp | loop |
lps | loops |
LPT | left purl travel; a left-leaning cable cross where the second stitch ending up below is a purl stitch |
LSI | Left simple inset increase |
LT | left twist; a mock cable leaning to the left |
LTCO | long tail cast-on; one of the most popular ways to start a knitting project |
m | marker |
M1 | make one; a generic way to say create one new stitch |
M1A | make one away |
M1BL | make one back loop; a left-leaning increase and a way to cast on stitches at the end of a row |
M1K | make one knitwise; make one stitch by knitting into back of loop between two stitches; the most simple knitting increase |
M1L | make one left; with left-hand needle tip, lift the strand between needles from front to back and then knit lifted loop through the back of loop; a left-leaning increase |
M1lp | make one left purlwise; with left-hand needle tip, lift the strand between needles from front to back and then purl lifted loop through the back of loop; a left-leaning purl increase |
M1P or M1pw | make one purlwise; make one stitch by purling into back of loop between two stitches; a single purl increase |
M1PL | make one purl left; a simple left-leaning increase for the wrong side; sometimes also called M1Lp |
M1PR | make one purl right; a simple right-leaning increase for the wrong side; sometimes also called M1Rp |
M1R | make one right; with left-hand needle tip, lift the strand between needles from back to front and then knit lifted loop through the front of loop; a right-leaning increase |
M1rp | make one right purlwise; with left-hand needle tip, lift the strand between needles from back to front and then purl lifted loop through the front of loop; a right-leaning purl increase |
M1T | make one towards |
M2 | make two, also known as double increase |
MB | make bobble |
MC | main color |
mds | make double stitch; a special technique that is used to prevent holes from forming to the turning point when knitting short rows |
meas | measure(s) |
mm | millimeters |
mrk or m | marker |
N1 | needle 1 |
N2 | needle 2 |
N3 | needle 3 |
no. | number |
oz | ounces |
p or P | purl |
ptbl | purl through back loop |
p–b | purl stitch in the row below |
p1 f&b | purl front and back; purl the front of the stitch, then purl the back of the same stitch; a single purl increase that leaves a little bar |
P1B | purl one below; purl one stitch into the row below |
P2B | purl two below; purl into the stitch two rows below |
P3B | purl three below; purl into the stitch three rows below |
P2SP | purl two, slip, pass; purl two stitches together, then slip the created stitch to the left needle and pass the second stitch over the purl stitch and move the remaining stitch back on the right needle; a left-leaning double purl decrease |
p2sso | pass two slipped stitches over |
p2tog | purl two together; a left-leaning purl decrease |
p2tog tbl | purl two together through the back loop; a right-leaning purl decrease |
p3tog | purl three together; a left-leaning double purl decrease |
p3tog tbl | purl three together through the back loop; a right-leaning double purl decrease |
pat or patt | pattern |
patts | patterns |
PB | place bead |
pbf | purl back and front; purl into the back leg of the stitch and then purl into the front leg of the same stitch; a single purl increase that leaves a little bar |
pfb | purl front back; purl the front of the stitch, then purl the back of the same stitch; a single purl increase that leaves a little bar |
pfbf | purl front back front |
PLL | purl left loop; also known as the left-lifted purl increase |
PLLI | purled left loop increase; also known as the left-lifted purl increase |
pm | place marker |
pnso | pass next stitch over |
pop | popcorn stitch |
prev | previous |
PRL | purl right loop; also known as the right-lifted purl increase |
psso | pass slipped stitch over |
ptbl or p1tbl | purl through the back loop; results in a twisted purl stitch |
pu | pick up stitches |
pwise or p–wise | purlwise |
R | row or round |
RC | right cross |
rem | remain or remaining |
rep | repeat |
reps | repeats |
rev St st | reverse stockinette stitch |
rev YO | reverse yarn over |
RH | right hand |
rib | ribbing |
rib2tog | either k2tog or p2tog depending on what next stitch in ribbing should be; results in a neat looking ribbing |
RLI | right lifted increase |
rnd | round (on a circular needle or DPNs) |
rnds | rounds (on a circular needle or DPNs) |
RPT | right purl travel; a right-leaning cable cross of two stitches where the first stitch ending up below is a purl stitch |
RS | right side |
RSI | right simple inset increase |
RT | right twist; a mock cable leaning to the right |
S2KP2 or s2kpo | slip two stitches together, knit one, pass two slip stitches over; a centered double decrease |
SB2 | slip back two; slip two increased stitches back to the left needle purlwise when knitting stacked increases |
sel or sel s | selvage, selvedge, or selvage stitch; a self-finished edge |
sk | skip |
SK2P or sk2po | slip one knitwise, knit two together, pass slipped stitch over; a left-leaning double decrease |
SKL | slip, knit, lift; a right-leaning bar increase mirroring kfb |
SKP | slip, knit, pass; slip one stitch knitwise, knit one stitch and then pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch; a single left-leaning decrease |
skpo | slip, knit, pass over; slip one stitch, knit one stitch and then pass the slipped stitch over; a single left-leaning decrease |
sl or sl. or S | slip; slip one stitch without knitting it |
sl st | slip stitch; stitches you slipped before; sometimes abbreviated also as ss |
sl1k | slip one knitwise |
sl1p | slip one purlwise |
slk or slip knot or slipknot | a simple knot; often used to start a cast-on |
sm or slm | slip marker |
sp | space |
SP2P or SP2 | slip, purl two, pass; slip one stitch knitwise, then purl two stitches together and pass the slipped stitch over the purl stitch; a right-leaning double purl decrease |
ss | slip stitch; stitches you slipped before; more commonly abbreviated as sl st |
ssk | slip, slip, knit; slip two stitches knitwise and then knit these two stitches together through back loops; a single left-leaning decrease |
ssp | slip, slip, purl; slip two stitches knitwise, then return these two stitches to left needle and purl them together through back loops; a single right-leaning purl decrease |
SSPP2 or s2pp decrease | slip, slip, purl, pass two; slip two stitches knitwise, slip these two stitches to back to the left needle purlwise and then slip them as if to p2tog through back loops, purl one stitch and pass two slipped stitches over the purl stitch; a centered double purl |
sssk | slip, slip, slip, knit; slip three stitches knitwise and then knit these three stitches together through back loops; a left-leaning double decrease |
sssp | slip, slip, slip, purl; slip three stitches knitwise, return these three stitches to left needle purlwise and purl them together through back loops; a left-leaning double decrease |
st | stitch |
sts | stitches |
st st or stst | stockinette stitch |
T2B | twist two back; slip next stitch onto the cable needle and hold at back, knit one stitch from left needle and then purl one from cable needle |
T2F | twist two front; slip next stitch onto the cable needle and hold at front, purl one stitch from the left needle and then knit one from the cable needle |
T2L | twist two left; knit in the back loop of the second stitch on the left needle, then knit in the front of the first stitch and slip both stitches off the left needle |
T2R | twist two right; knit in the back loop of the second stitch on the left needle, then purl in the front of the first stitch and slip both stitches off the left needle |
tbf or tfl | through front loop |
tbl or tbl. | through back loop |
TL | traveling left; a twisted stitch that moves left in a line across other stitches; also known as twist two to the left (T2L) or left twist (LT) |
TR | traveling right; a twisted stitch that moves right in a line across other stitches; also known as twist two to the right (T2R) or right twist (RT) |
tog | together |
w&t or w@t | wrap and turn |
W3 | wrap three stitches |
won | wool over needle |
wrn | wool round needle |
WS | wrong side; or backside of a knitting project |
wyib | with yarn in back |
wyif | with yarn in front |
y2rn | wrap yarn twice around needle |
yb or ybk | yarn back; bring yarn into back of work; simply means to move the working yarn to the back of your project without catching it with the needle tips |
yf or yfd or yfwd | yarn forward; bring yarn into front of work; simply means to move the working yarn to the front of your project without catching it with the needle tips |
yfon | yarn forward and over needle |
yfrn | yard forward and round needle |
YIB | yarn in back |
YIF | yarn in front |
yo or yon | yarn over; a simple increase between knit stitches that creates an eyelet; a popular stitch in lace patterns |
yo2 | yarn over twice |
yrn | yarn round needle; a type of increase between purl stitches and between a knit and a purl stitch that creates an eyelet; an increase similar to a yarn over for the purlside |
Understanding these few abbreviations will go a long way, but what really matters is knowing how to do them. That’s what we’ll tackle next. Get ready to put these abbreviations into action!
Step-by-Step Guide to Common Abbreviations
Ready to get those needles clicking? Let’s break down some of these common abbreviations with step-by-step instructions. We’ll start with the basics and move our way up.
First up, the knit stitch, abbreviated as ‘K’. Hold the needle with the cast-on stitches in your left hand. Insert the right needle into the first stitch from front to back. Wrap your yarn around the right needle, pull it through the stitch, and slide that stitch off the left needle. Boom, you’ve knitted a stitch!
Next, let’s purl, abbreviated as ‘P’. This time, insert the right needle from right to left in front of the first stitch. Wrap your yarn around the right needle, pull it through, and slide the stitch off the left needle. You’ve now purled!
Casting on (CO) is how you get stitches onto your needle to start a project. There are several methods, but a simple one is the ‘long-tail cast on’. Make a slipknot and place it on your needle. Hold the needle in your right hand and wrap the yarn around your thumb and index finger. Use the needle to catch the yarn on your thumb, then the yarn on your finger, and pull through. You’ve just cast on your first stitch. Repeat until you have the number of stitches you need.
Binding off (BO) is how you finish your project. Knit two stitches, then use the left needle to lift the first stitch over the second and off the needle. Knit another stitch and repeat the process until all stitches are bound off.
Now for some decreases. ‘K2tog’ is your friend here. Knit two stitches as if they were one, pulling the yarn through both and sliding them off the needle. Simple!
‘SSK’ might sound complicated, but it’s not. Slip two stitches knitwise—one at a time—from the left needle to the right, then insert the left needle into these two stitches from left to right and knit them together.
Lastly, the yarn over (YO) which is often used in lace patterns. Bring the yarn to the front of your work, then knit the next stitch. This will create a little loop on your needle, adding an extra stitch and a hole in your fabric.
Practice these techniques, and these abbreviations will become second nature. Confidence in these stitches will open up a whole world of knitting possibilities.
Practical Tips and Tricks for Beginner Knitters
Picking up knitting abbreviations may take some time, and that’s totally okay. There are some ways to make it easier and more fun.
One helpful trick is using memory aids. Create your own little phrases or rhymes. For example, ‘K2tog’ could become ‘Knit-two-together’ in your head, and it flows like a little mantra as you work through it. Over time, these will stick, and you’ll recall them naturally.
Another tip is keeping a cheat sheet handy. There are plenty of free resources online with lists of knitting abbreviations and their meanings. Print one out and keep it beside you as you work on a new pattern. It’s a quick reference that can save you a lot of hassle. Apps and websites like Ravelry also offer comprehensive databases of abbreviations and techniques.
Making mistakes is part of the process. If you mess up a stitch or can’t remember an abbreviation, don’t stress about it. Every knitter has been there, I promise. Keeping a crochet hook nearby is great for fixing dropped stitches. And if you really mess up, don’t be afraid to pull out some stitches and try again. It happens to the best of us.
Finally, join a knitting group or online community. Nothing beats learning from fellow knitters who’ve been in your shoes. They can offer insights, tips, and the encouragement needed to keep going. Sites like Reddit have active knitting communities ready to help with your questions.