Knitting abbreviations might look like a bunch of random letters, but trust me, they are super helpful once you get the hang of them. These short forms save space in patterns and make knitting instructions easier to follow. But, if you’re new to knitting, they might feel like decoding a secret language. Don’t worry, though; I’ve got your back!

Knitting abbreviations are basically shorthand for certain stitches, techniques, or instructions. Instead of writing out the full phrase ‘Knit two together,’ a pattern will just use ‘K2tog.’ It’s way quicker and keeps things tidy, especially in complex patterns.

Why are these abbreviations so essential? Well, they help keep patterns clear and concise. Imagine reading a pattern that spells out every single instruction in full—it would be like trying to read a novel! Abbreviations cut through the noise, letting you focus on the actual knitting.

Let’s look at some of the common abbreviations you’ll come across. There are plenty, but we’ll focus on some basics you’ll use often. These include ‘K’ for knit, ‘P’ for purl, ‘CO’ for cast on, and ‘BO’ for bind off. There are also combination techniques like ‘K2tog’ (knit two together) and ‘SSK’ (slip, slip, knit) that might look intimidating at first but are straightforward once you know what they mean and how to execute them.

So, sit tight, grab your knitting needles, and let’s dive into the world of knitting abbreviations. Trust me, by the time you finish, you’ll be decoding patterns like a pro!

Deciphering Common Knitting Abbreviations

Knitting patterns can seem like a different language at first, but once you get to know the standard abbreviations, it’s like unlocking a secret code. Knowing what each abbreviation means and how to do it is key to becoming a confident knitter.

Let’s start with the building blocks: ‘K’ and ‘P’. It doesn’t get more basic than this. ‘K’ stands for knit, which is your go-to stitch. On the flip side, ‘P’ is for purl, which creates a different texture. These two stitches are like the bread and butter of knitting. Every other technique builds off these basics.

Next, you have ‘CO’ and ‘BO,’ which stand for cast on and bind off. ‘CO’ is the technique you use to start your project, giving you the foundational stitches. ‘BO’ is how you finish your piece, securing the stitches so they don’t unravel. Simple enough, right?

Now, onto some slightly more advanced abbreviations. ‘K2tog’ means knit two together. It’s a decrease stitch that’s used to shape your knitting, making it narrower. You basically knit two stitches at once instead of one. Another common one is ‘SSK,’ which stands for slip, slip, knit. This is another decrease stitch, but it leans the other way, giving your knitting a balanced look.

Then there’s ‘YO,’ which stands for yarn over. This creates a small hole in your knitting, often used in lace patterns. It’s done by bringing the yarn to the front before making the next stitch, creating an extra loop on your needle.


Here’s a complete list from A-Z of common knitting terms:

General

* repeat instructions following the single asterisk as directed

* * repeat instructions between asterisks as many times as directed or repeat from a given set of instructions

{ } work instructions within brackets as many times as directed

[ ] work instructions within brackets as many times as directed

( ) work instructions within parentheses as many times as directed

Knitting Abbreviations A to Z

altalternate
approxapproximately
b&tbreak and tighten
begbeginning
betbetween
bk3togbrioche knit three together; a right-leaning decrease for the brioche stitch
BObind off; also known as cast-off
BORbeginning of round or row
Br4st decbrioche four stitch decrease; a double decrease for the brioche stitch
brkbrioche knit
brkyobrkbrioche knit yarn over brioche knit; a centered increase for the brioche stitch
brkyobrkyobrkbrioche knit yarn over brioche knit yarn over brioche knit; a centered double increase for the brioche stitch
brpbrioche purl
bsk2pbrioche slip, knit two, pass; a right-leaning decrease for the brioche stitch
byobackward yarn over; often also reverse yarn often
C2Bcable two back; slip one stitch to cable needle and hold in back, knit one, knit one from cable needle
C2Fcable two front; slip one stitch to cable needle and hold in front, knit one, knit one from cable needle
c2l or cross 2 Lcross two stitches to the left
c2r or cross 2 Rcross two stitches to the right
C4Bcable four back; slip two stitches to cable needle and hold in back, knit two, knit two from cable needle
C4Fcable four front; slip two stitches to cable needle and hold in front, knit two, knit two from cable needle
C6Bcable six back; slip three stitches to cable needle and hold in back, knit three, knit three from cable needle
C6Fcable six front; slip three stitches to cable needle and hold in front, knit three, knit three from cable needle
CAcolor A
CBcolor B
cbcable back
CCcontrast color
cddcentered double decrease; a variation of k3tog
CDDPcentered double decrease purl; a variation of p3tog
CDIcentral double increase; a centered increase that increases by two stitches
cfcable forward
chchain
circcircular needles
cmcentimeters
cncable needle
cnrcorner
COcast on; sometimes also cast-off
cont or cont.continue
CSDcentered single decrease
CSDBcentered single decrease back
decdecrease
decsdecreases
DIdouble increase; also known as Make two
DKdouble knitting
dpn or DPNsdouble-pointed needles
EONend of needle
EOR end of row
eorevery other row or round
estestablished
FCfront cross
flfront loop
foll or foll.follow or following
folls or folls.follows
ggrams
g st or g. stgarter stitch
grpgroup
in or “inches
inc or inc. or incsincrease using method of your choice; usually knit into same stitch twice
inclincluding
k or Kknit
k1Bknit one below; knit one stitch into the row below
k2Bknit two below; knit into the stitch two rows below
k3Bknit three below; knit into the stitch three rows below
k2togknit two together; a single right-leaning decrease
k2togleft knit two together left; a single left-leaning decrease
k2tog tblknit two together through the back loop; a single left-leaning decrease
k3togknit three together; a right-leaning double decrease
kbfknit back and front; very similar to kfb but leaves a less pronounced bar
kblknit through the back loop
kfb or K1 F&Bknit front back; knit one into front and back of a stitch; a single left-leaning increase
kfbfknit front back front
kfsbknit front, slip back; a left-leaning increase
KLLknit left loop; a left-leaning increase; sometimes also called left-lifted increase (LLI)
KRLknit right loop; a right-leaning increase; sometimes also called right-lifted increase (RLI)
kspknit, slip, pass; knit one stitch, slip this stitch from right needle to left needle, pass the second stitch on the left needle over the first stitch and off the left needle, then return the stitch to right needle; a right-leaning decrease
ktbl or k tbl or k1tblknit through the back loop; results in twisted knit stitches
kwise or kwknitwise
KYOKknit one, yarn over, knit one into the same stitch again; an increase technique used when knitting stacked increases
LCleft cross
LHleft hand
LLIleft lifted increase
LLPIleft lifted purl increase; also known as purl left loop (PLL) or purled left loop increase (PLLI)
lploop
lpsloops
LPTleft purl travel; a left-leaning cable cross where the second stitch ending up below is a purl stitch
LSILeft simple inset increase
LTleft twist; a mock cable leaning to the left
LTCO long tail cast-on; one of the most popular ways to start a knitting project
mmarker
M1make one; a generic way to say create one new stitch
M1Amake one away
M1BLmake one back loop; a left-leaning increase and a way to cast on stitches at the end of a row
M1Kmake one knitwise; make one stitch by knitting into back of loop between two stitches; the most simple knitting increase
M1Lmake one left; with left-hand needle tip, lift the strand between needles from front to back and then knit lifted loop through the back of loop; a left-leaning increase
M1lpmake one left purlwise; with left-hand needle tip, lift the strand between needles from front to back and then purl lifted loop through the back of loop; a left-leaning purl increase
M1P or M1pwmake one purlwise; make one stitch by purling into back of loop between two stitches; a single purl increase
M1PLmake one purl left; a simple left-leaning increase for the wrong side; sometimes also called M1Lp
M1PRmake one purl right; a simple right-leaning increase for the wrong side; sometimes also called M1Rp
M1Rmake one right; with left-hand needle tip, lift the strand between needles from back to front and then knit lifted loop through the front of loop; a right-leaning increase
M1rpmake one right purlwise; with left-hand needle tip, lift the strand between needles from back to front and then purl lifted loop through the front of loop; a right-leaning purl increase
M1Tmake one towards
M2make two, also known as double increase
MBmake bobble
MCmain color
mdsmake double stitch; a special technique that is used to prevent holes from forming to the turning point when knitting short rows
measmeasure(s)
mmmillimeters
mrk or mmarker
N1needle 1
N2needle 2
N3needle 3
no.number
ozounces
p or Ppurl
ptblpurl through back loop
p–bpurl stitch in the row below
p1 f&bpurl front and back; purl the front of the stitch, then purl the back of the same stitch; a single purl increase that leaves a little bar
P1Bpurl one below; purl one stitch into the row below
P2Bpurl two below; purl into the stitch two rows below
P3Bpurl three below; purl into the stitch three rows below
P2SPpurl two, slip, pass; purl two stitches together, then slip the created stitch to the left needle and pass the second stitch over the purl stitch and move the remaining stitch back on the right needle; a left-leaning double purl decrease
p2ssopass two slipped stitches over
p2togpurl two together; a left-leaning purl decrease
p2tog tblpurl two together through the back loop; a right-leaning purl decrease
p3togpurl three together; a left-leaning double purl decrease
p3tog tblpurl three together through the back loop; a right-leaning double purl decrease
pat or pattpattern
pattspatterns
PBplace bead
pbfpurl back and front; purl into the back leg of the stitch and then purl into the front leg of the same stitch; a single purl increase that leaves a little bar
pfbpurl front back; purl the front of the stitch, then purl the back of the same stitch; a single purl increase that leaves a little bar
pfbfpurl front back front
PLLpurl left loop; also known as the left-lifted purl increase
PLLIpurled left loop increase; also known as the left-lifted purl increase
pm place marker
pnsopass next stitch over
poppopcorn stitch
prevprevious
PRLpurl right loop; also known as the right-lifted purl increase
pssopass slipped stitch over
ptbl or p1tblpurl through the back loop; results in a twisted purl stitch
pupick up stitches
pwise or p–wisepurlwise
Rrow or round
RCright cross
remremain or remaining
reprepeat
repsrepeats
rev St streverse stockinette stitch
rev YOreverse yarn over
RHright hand
ribribbing
rib2togeither k2tog or p2tog depending on what next stitch in ribbing should be; results in a neat looking ribbing
RLIright lifted increase
rndround (on a circular needle or DPNs)
rndsrounds (on a circular needle or DPNs)
RPTright purl travel; a right-leaning cable cross of two stitches where the first stitch ending up below is a purl stitch
RSright side
RSIright simple inset increase
RTright twist; a mock cable leaning to the right
S2KP2 or s2kposlip two stitches together, knit one, pass two slip stitches over; a centered double decrease
SB2slip back two; slip two increased stitches back to the left needle purlwise when knitting stacked increases
sel or sel sselvage, selvedge, or selvage stitch; a self-finished edge
skskip
SK2P or sk2poslip one knitwise, knit two together, pass slipped stitch over; a left-leaning double decrease
SKLslip, knit, lift; a right-leaning bar increase mirroring kfb
SKPslip, knit, pass; slip one stitch knitwise, knit one stitch and then pass the slipped stitch over the knit stitch; a single left-leaning decrease
skposlip, knit, pass over; slip one stitch, knit one stitch and then pass the slipped stitch over; a single left-leaning decrease
sl or sl. or Sslip; slip one stitch without knitting it
sl stslip stitch; stitches you slipped before; sometimes abbreviated also as ss
sl1kslip one knitwise
sl1pslip one purlwise
slk or slip knot or slipknota simple knot; often used to start a cast-on
sm or slmslip marker
spspace
SP2P or SP2slip, purl two, pass; slip one stitch knitwise, then purl two stitches together and pass the slipped stitch over the purl stitch; a right-leaning double purl decrease
ssslip stitch; stitches you slipped before; more commonly abbreviated as sl st
sskslip, slip, knit; slip two stitches knitwise and then knit these two stitches together through back loops; a single left-leaning decrease
sspslip, slip, purl; slip two stitches knitwise, then return these two stitches to left needle and purl them together through back loops; a single right-leaning purl decrease
SSPP2 or s2pp  decreaseslip, slip, purl, pass two; slip two stitches knitwise, slip these two stitches to back to the left needle purlwise and then slip them as if to p2tog through back loops, purl one stitch and pass two slipped stitches over the purl stitch; a centered double purl
ssskslip, slip, slip, knit; slip three stitches knitwise and then knit these three stitches together through back loops; a left-leaning double decrease
ssspslip, slip, slip, purl; slip three stitches knitwise, return these three stitches to left needle purlwise and purl them together through back loops; a left-leaning double decrease
ststitch
stsstitches
st st or stststockinette stitch
T2Btwist two back; slip next stitch onto the cable needle and hold at back, knit one stitch from left needle and then purl one from cable needle
T2Ftwist two front; slip next stitch onto the cable needle and hold at front, purl one stitch from the left needle and then knit one from the cable needle
T2Ltwist two left; knit in the back loop of the second stitch on the left needle, then knit in the front of the first stitch and slip both stitches off the left needle
T2Rtwist two right; knit in the back loop of the second stitch on the left needle, then purl in the front of the first stitch and slip both stitches off the left needle
tbf or tflthrough front loop
tbl or tbl.through back loop
TLtraveling left; a twisted stitch that moves left in a line across other stitches; also known as twist two to the left (T2L) or left twist (LT)
TRtraveling right; a twisted stitch that moves right in a line across other stitches; also known as twist two to the right (T2R) or right twist (RT)
togtogether
w&t or w@twrap and turn
W3wrap three stitches
wonwool over needle
wrnwool round needle
WSwrong side; or backside of a knitting project
wyibwith yarn in back
wyifwith yarn in front
y2rnwrap yarn twice around needle
yb or ybkyarn back; bring yarn into back of work; simply means to move the working yarn to the back of your project without catching it with the needle tips
yf or yfd or yfwdyarn forward; bring yarn into front of work; simply means to move the working yarn to the front of your project without catching it with the needle tips
yfonyarn forward and over needle
yfrnyard forward and round needle
YIByarn in back
YIFyarn in front
yo or yonyarn over; a simple increase between knit stitches that creates an eyelet; a popular stitch in lace patterns
yo2yarn over twice
yrnyarn round needle; a type of increase between purl stitches and between a knit and a purl stitch that creates an eyelet; an increase similar to a yarn over for the purlside

Understanding these few abbreviations will go a long way, but what really matters is knowing how to do them. That’s what we’ll tackle next. Get ready to put these abbreviations into action!

Step-by-Step Guide to Common Abbreviations

Ready to get those needles clicking? Let’s break down some of these common abbreviations with step-by-step instructions. We’ll start with the basics and move our way up.

First up, the knit stitch, abbreviated as ‘K’. Hold the needle with the cast-on stitches in your left hand. Insert the right needle into the first stitch from front to back. Wrap your yarn around the right needle, pull it through the stitch, and slide that stitch off the left needle. Boom, you’ve knitted a stitch!

Next, let’s purl, abbreviated as ‘P’. This time, insert the right needle from right to left in front of the first stitch. Wrap your yarn around the right needle, pull it through, and slide the stitch off the left needle. You’ve now purled!

Casting on (CO) is how you get stitches onto your needle to start a project. There are several methods, but a simple one is the ‘long-tail cast on’. Make a slipknot and place it on your needle. Hold the needle in your right hand and wrap the yarn around your thumb and index finger. Use the needle to catch the yarn on your thumb, then the yarn on your finger, and pull through. You’ve just cast on your first stitch. Repeat until you have the number of stitches you need.

Binding off (BO) is how you finish your project. Knit two stitches, then use the left needle to lift the first stitch over the second and off the needle. Knit another stitch and repeat the process until all stitches are bound off.

Now for some decreases. ‘K2tog’ is your friend here. Knit two stitches as if they were one, pulling the yarn through both and sliding them off the needle. Simple!

‘SSK’ might sound complicated, but it’s not. Slip two stitches knitwise—one at a time—from the left needle to the right, then insert the left needle into these two stitches from left to right and knit them together.

Lastly, the yarn over (YO) which is often used in lace patterns. Bring the yarn to the front of your work, then knit the next stitch. This will create a little loop on your needle, adding an extra stitch and a hole in your fabric.

Practice these techniques, and these abbreviations will become second nature. Confidence in these stitches will open up a whole world of knitting possibilities.

Practical Tips and Tricks for Beginner Knitters

Picking up knitting abbreviations may take some time, and that’s totally okay. There are some ways to make it easier and more fun.

One helpful trick is using memory aids. Create your own little phrases or rhymes. For example, ‘K2tog’ could become ‘Knit-two-together’ in your head, and it flows like a little mantra as you work through it. Over time, these will stick, and you’ll recall them naturally.

Another tip is keeping a cheat sheet handy. There are plenty of free resources online with lists of knitting abbreviations and their meanings. Print one out and keep it beside you as you work on a new pattern. It’s a quick reference that can save you a lot of hassle. Apps and websites like Ravelry also offer comprehensive databases of abbreviations and techniques.

Making mistakes is part of the process. If you mess up a stitch or can’t remember an abbreviation, don’t stress about it. Every knitter has been there, I promise. Keeping a crochet hook nearby is great for fixing dropped stitches. And if you really mess up, don’t be afraid to pull out some stitches and try again. It happens to the best of us.

Finally, join a knitting group or online community. Nothing beats learning from fellow knitters who’ve been in your shoes. They can offer insights, tips, and the encouragement needed to keep going. Sites like Reddit have active knitting communities ready to help with your questions.

By Chelsey

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